by Janell Ross / Bridgetown, Barbados | Photographs by Christopher Gregory-Rivera for TIME
When we reach the dirt road leading to Drax Hall plantation, Esther Phillips suggests we stop the car. Phillips, 73, gets out and draws in a deep breath. There’s a faint, sweet smell of something akin to rum out here, about eight miles from the capital city. The dried remains of sugarcane, burned then harvested, flank the road.
This is about as close as she can get.
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